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I use adobe Photoshop as little as I can, I would much prefer to get a photo right in camera so I am not investing hours for every single image. Most of my own photos have been captured on average half an hour.
A shot taken around mid day, may well be affected by harsh and high sunshine. To get over this I placed my model in the shadows produced by the actual branches of a sizable palm tree. I set up a large California Sun-bounce Gold and Silver Zebra reflector out in the direct sunshine reflecting soft warm light onto the front of my model.
I took a light measurement from my models face and photographed with shutter speed of 1250s aperture of f2.8 at 400 ISO. White balance set up to daylight.
This image was shot in my D2H with a 24mm to be able to 70mm f2,8 Nikon lens, focal size set with 42mm, 1.4 mtrs away from my personal model to stress her limbs also therefore we had a excellent connection for creating great energy and pointing.
Notice my lens/eye level is in the middle of the girl torso, this is important when capturing wide perspective and close to your own subject to steer clear of distortion, ie if you take to up high your designs head will probably be big and the woman's legs may be like they are quick like a poultry and visa versa thus its important to get your eye/camera lens level at the proper just the height in order to avoid distortion,
I will often shoot from the lower angle, particularly when I am attempting to emphasize the gap of a designs legs regarding hosiery pictures.
To keep the sky as glowing blue as possible I chance with a polarizing filter on my lens, looking towards the west of the particular midday sunshine. This is how you retain the sea and the sky blue as well as making my models skin/tan look great an soft by removing some of the actual specular reflections on her behalf skin.
If I had been shooting facing more to the east the sky and the sea would have been much more burned away..
When I started shooting digital I were built with a lot of problems because I attempted to shoot digital the same way that I shot film. Now whenever I am capturing, I will always under expose in the meter reading, this is done for a couple of reasons, in order to saturate shade as well as to make sure I am not loosing my high lights. Obviously my personal images are going to be a little about the dark side however I can easily appropriate for this using a little s curve inside Photoshop to start the actual retouching process.
I constantly shoot raw files and a small jpg, exactly why I will explain inside another Small Gem.
I process my raw file as shot in camera raw from Bridge and open them in adobe Photoshop. (Raw files possess a great deal more latitude re graphic info and also will result in greater quality pictures).
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Unknown - Sunday, September 30, 2012
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